We spent the first week of August in Burlington, VT for our family vacation. I was worried about the summer heat, but we got lucky and the weather was perfect. We spent our mornings hiking, kayaking, and biking, taking advantage of the cool lake breeze. Afternoons were spent having lunch outside, topped off with the occasional maple creemee and a well deserved pint for me.
On one of our slower days we took a trip to the Shelburne Museum which I highly recommend if you are in the area. The museum features many rescued relics from all over Vermont, including the Steamboat Ticonderoga, a covered bridge, and many historic buildings rescued and moved to the museum. One of my favorite exhibits was the General Store which was stocked to the brim with items you would see in a Sears Catalog from the 1800’s.
If you like beaches, you will enjoy North Beach Park. We rented our Kayaks there and explored the rocky shoreline around Lone Rock Point. If the kids were not with us, we probably would have spent a day at the beach relaxing.
The other big highlight of the trip was a 23 mile bike ride along the Burlington Greenway, across the Lake Champlain Causeway. We hopped on the Local Motion Bike Ferry to go to South Hero for lunch at The Hive Cafe. The rented bike I wound up with was not ideal, but there are only a few hills to navigate.
For photos, I brought along the Fujifilm X100V, Panasonic GX85 and the Fujifilm W3 3D. The X100V was a great camera for walking around with all day slung over my shoulder. I used the built in ND filter a few times, and later forgot that it was still on… I wish it turned off when the camera went to sleep.
The Panasonic GX85 is a great camera for action and telephoto shots. I used the 12-32mm pancake lens for shots like in the Kayak below. The woodpecker shot was taken with the Panasonic 100-300mm lens which has become my go-to lens for telephoto shots. I love the Micro 4/3rds system for the compact size and image stabilization… I just wish they would come out with a new updated bsi sensor with higher resolution.
Enjoy the photos and let me know if you have any questions! – Sean
FujiFilm released the Finepix W3 3D in 2010. I purchased my camera in 2014 on Amazon for $190 as a brand new import from Japan. The 3D TV craze had pretty much died by then, and while according to WikiPedia, the camera initially sold well, it was eventually discontinued and a FujiFilm never released a follow up model. While there have been various cameras with 3D capability since then, like the Lenovo Mirage and the Vuze XR 3D VR nothing has really surpassed the FujiFilm camera for 3D photography in my opinion.
First, let me start off by talking about why a camera made in 2010 is not ideal…
It features 2 tiny 10 megapixel sensors, that are very bad in low light, and have very bad dynamic range (blown highlights are common)
The battery life is very bad… i have 3 batteries, and I usually bring them all when I take the camera out.
The autofocus is slow and inaccurate, the auto white balance is bad, and the exposure controls are not intuitive.
Due to the placement of the lenses, you have to try really hard not to get your fingers in the way.
The built in flash is positioned in the worst possible place, and is basically unusable.
Summary: The camera is not good in any kind of way you would expect a modern camera to be. But… it does do the following :
It takes 2 photos at exactly the same time, with lenses spaced at about the same distance as the human eyes, in a form factor that easily slips into a coat pocket or bag.
It actually has an LCD that can display the images in 3D!
Ok, so we have a camera that takes 3d Pictures. The images are in a format called MPO. You can read about MPO files here, but it is basically 2 jpeg images (left and right) imbedded in a single file. In fact, if you rename an .MPO file to .jpg, you can import it into Lightroom, and view them in your catalog, but you will only see the left image. Since Lightroom will not modify your original files, you can always rename it back to .MPO if needed.
When taking 3D photos, you want at least 6 to 10 feet of distance between you and your subject. Try to keep distracting objects like tree branches out of the foreground. You want to have some separation between your subject and the background to create a greater feeling of depth. Finally, keep your fingers off of the lenses!
After you take the picture what do you do with it? How do you share it? How can you see it in 3D without using the camera?
StereoPhoto Maker also lets you create Lenticular Images! Basically you buy some Stereo Lenticular lenses from a company like Vue-Thru. I purchased these 5×7 lenses. To make a long story short, this requires a lot of trial and error. Lenticular works better with more than 2 images, and while it might work ok for some stereo images, it works best if you have 7 or 8 images created using depth maps… too much to discuss here.
So where does that leave us. I present you with the best way, in my opinion, to view the images created with this camera. A technology so old, it was all the rage during the 1800’s :
StereoPhoto Maker lets you easily print Stereograph Cards, and all you need is a viewer like Brian May’s (yes the guitar player from Queen!) Owl Viewer. Brain May is a very interesting guy. He has a website dedicated to stereo photography : LondonStereo.com. Check out some of his books on Amazon.
Here are some more 3D related links you may Interesting :
In summary, the FujiFilm 3D W3 is not a camera for everyone. There are other options… but over 10 years later, it is still a viable and popular option for digital 3D photographers to consider. A message to FujiFilm : Please make us an updated version… I promise we will buy it!
It’s hard to talk about the X100V and other Fujifilm cameras, and not talk about film.
Over the years in the 90’s and early 2000’s, I shot with various negative films from Kodak and Fujifilm, not really with any intention besides picking the ISO rating and color vs. B&W. I paid a local lab to develop it, and occasionally would get pictures blown up to hang on a wall.
While I love the images I took over the years, I don’t miss film one bit. On one trip, I used about 36 rolls of film. It probably cost over $400 to buy and process… almost $2 per click. My lightroom catalog has over 24000 images from my D200 ($1699 when released). That’s about .14 cents per image, not including the ones i deleted. Scanning film is a slow annoying process, and while I enjoy bringing my old photos alive digitally, I will never buy another roll of film.
So that brings me to the X100V. It is a camera that oozes a retro vibe. It looks and feels like it could have been made in the 1970’s if you ignore the LCD on the back… you might think there is a roll of film inside of it. I would go as far to say that it is a camera with a soul. As I type this, it is sitting in front of me, begging me to pick it up, hold it, and shoot with it.
I will be honest, I don’t usually read the manuals when I buy a camera. But with Fujifilm, you find yourself looking at menu options like “Dynamic Range – DR100/DR200/DR400/DR Auto”. How does that affect raw photos, and what does it do? The manual is not very clear, so off to youtube.
There is a confusing interaction (in my opinion) between the top dials, and the front and rear dials that took me a while to figure out. The way I shoot, I basically set the ISO and Shutter to (A)uto, and I use the exposure compensation and aperture ring manually. If you want to use the front and real dials set the top dials/aperture ring to (C)ornfused, and then you can use the menus to set up the front and rear dials for those functions… off to youtube!
Next, we have the (Q)uick menu. Take the time to set that up with the commands you want to use often… Help me Youtuuuube!!!
Finally, there is the viewfinder. You can configure the display in both optical and evf mode. Hitting the “Disp Back” will declutter the displays with a single click. When you use the finder in optical mode, AF functionality changes… eye af does not work (i think?). Hmmmm… maybe Youtube can simplify things.
Ok… now you can start taking some pictures. Do you want Classic Chrome with large film grain, and extra strong or weak chrome effect? Or Acros with a yellow or blue filter effect? Lets see what JayRegular on Youtube has to say.
Ok… now I can take a photo….
Most X100V people on the internet will tell you “I now only shoot jpegs with the X100V”. I am going to go against the grain. I only shoot raw, and I use the Lightroom camera profiles for these images. There are some differences to the in-camera profiles, but not enough for me to care.